PERU

Three weeks in Peru.

An incredible balance of traditions, nature and breathtaking landscapes.

Peru was the trip.

The one that you start dreaming about from the moment you first see Machu Picchu in history books.

18 days spent all in one breath, visiting three beautiful and yet very different cities, Lima, Arequipa and Cusco, exploring the wild nature and the unforgiving Andes during two celebrated treks (Colca Trek and the Inca Trail), and tasting the world-famous Peruvian cuisine.

We can say that Peru has been so far our favourite trip, yet so intense and filled with unforgettable moments. It took us 12 months and a forced lockdown to rearrange our memories and be ready to write about it. 

Peru has so much to offer that in18 days we could obviously not cover everything we wanted. We’ll be back at some point, to keep unravelling all the beauty that this country has to offer.

It’s undeniable that Peru is a popular tourist destination, attracting swarms of foodies, history and nature lovers, hikers – whether on budget or willing to splurge on more fancy restaurants and hotels. However, the country welcomes you with its authentic vibe and traditions, through the words and tales of the cheerful Quechua locals and the examples of fine Incan architecture.

We shared this incredible experience with our friend Francesco – what a trio we made! All three food lovers, Fab the history geek, Francesco the architecture expert and Caro the surf lover who convinced everyone to surf the waves in Lima.

RECAP & ITINERARY

When? April. How long? 18 days. Temperature? Overall sunny and dry in the cities. Hot days and chilly nights in the treks. Budget? 3000-3500€ per person all inclusive. Planning needed? Intense. Accommodation? Hotel, hostels, eco-lodges and camps. What to book in advance? Inca Trail, Colca Canyon Trek.

***

• Day 1 to 3 // Lima

• Day 4 to 8 // Arequipa + Colca Canyon Trek

• Day 9 to 13 // Cusco + Sacred Valley

• Day 14 to 17 // Inca Trail 

• Day 18 // Flight from Cusco to London

TRAVEL TIPS

Acute mountain sickness (also known as soroche in Peru) is a condition affecting people reaching heights of 3,000 metres and above. It may be light (shortness of breath, heart pounding) or intense (headache, loss of appetite, tiredness, nausea, etc). That’s how the body responds to the lack of oxygen in the air. Symptoms usually develop within the first day or two at high altitude. 

To prevent the soroche, give your body plenty of time to acclimatise to the different altitude levels. We started our Peruvian experience in Lima and gradually moved higher up: 4 days in Arequipa (2,300 metres above sea level), 5 days in Cusco (3,400 metres above sea level), to finish with the Inca Trail that reaches a peak of 4,215 metres above sea level.

Whether you experience a mild or stronger soroche, it’s suggested to take it easy and drink plenty of fluid, avoid cigarettes and alcohol as soon as you arrive at an altitude around 3,000 metres. Mate de coca, or coca tea, is quite helpful to get used to the altitude.

We also started taking two tablets a day of Acetazolamide a couple of days before our treks and during the ascent, then stopped as we had no particular sign of soroche.

Peru has a huge range of accommodation, from first-class hotel chains to small hostels with shared dorms. We got a taste of everything, from the outstanding 5-star hotel Casa Cartagena in Cusco to the solid mid-ranges like Casa Andina in Arequipa, passing through the lively Kokopelli Hostel in Lima.

The Peruvian Sol is the official currency of Peru, but US Dollars are widely accepted (however, there may be a small disadvantage when paying with USD). 

ATMs are readily available in all the major cities and in Aguas Calientes, near Machu Picchu. They are called in Spanish cajeros automáticos.

Always have some cash with you when shopping in city markets, during your treks, for taxis and in more rural places (such as the smaller villages in the Sacred Valley).

The standard arrival hub for International flights is Lima’s airport. The other main Peruvian airports are Cusco and Arequipa, both connected to the capital Lima with numerous daily flights. We flew in and out with British Airways from London with a direct flight. We also took a domestic flight from Lima to Arequipa with LATAM Airlines.

Buses are a great way to travel in Peru (and in the whole of South America) for travellers on a budget. There are many bus companies but the one with the best reviews are Cruz del Sur and Peru Hops. We booked a night bus (8 hours) with Cruz del Sur from Arequipa to Cusco. Buses are a great way to cover long distances but keep in mind that toilets are wee-only and that the roads are a bit bumpy, so it’s not always easy to sleep.

We definitely recommend the Inca Trail, a trek that follows the Inca route all the way to Machu Picchu. It is a popular trek and should be booked well in advance, because the government releases only 500 permits per day. You can read all the most important information in our complete guide and review here.

If you have time and want to challenge yourself further, then you could consider also hiking the Colca Canyon, the second deepest canyon in the world. This is also a popular trek, so it’s also a good idea to book in advance, especially if you are not very flexible with dates or are travelling during peak season. However you can also opt for a last minute booking, as there are plenty of agencies that offer this trek in Arequipa. Check out our complete guide and review here.

Travel insurance is definitely an important thing to have for a long trip to Peru with many outdoor activities. We chose Columbus Direct, with great discounts if you book as a party with your partner or friend.

Mario Vargas Llosa is the most famous Peruvian writer and it’s the best choice to get a taste of Peru. Our suggestions: “Conversation in the Cathedral”, a 1969 novel where he portrays the life of Peruvians in Lima in the 1950s under the dictatorship of Manuel A. Odría; the 2006 novel “The Bad Girl”, a love story that sees Peruvian narrator and protagonist move from Lima through Paris and London in the 1050s-70s.