THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE INCA TRAIL
ABOUT THE INCA TRAIL
What is the Inca Trail?
The Inca Trail, or Camino Inca, is one of the most celebrated hikes in the world, located in the Peruvian Andes nearby Cusco and terminating at Machu Picchu, the once-forgotten Inca city discovered by Hiram Bingham in 1911.
It’s a government-protected area and only 500 visit permits per day are released by the authorities.
The Inca people created many paths throughout the Andes in a network they called Qhapaq Ñan. The Camino Inca is just the most famous of all these trails.
There are three types of Inca Trail: the classic (4D-3N), the short one (2D-1N) and the extended version (7D-6N).
We did the classic group Inca Trail. It’s not extreme-alpinism, but we can confirm it’s a life-changing and intense experience, testing hikers for 45 km over 4 days with unpredictable weather, steep slopes and rough terrain, but only to repay them with the majestic view of Machu Picchu and the satisfaction of completing a historical trek.
You will witness natural beauties and breathtaking views along the way, so the quote “It’s the journey, not the destination” is probably the best statement you can read about the Inca Trail.
What is the Inca Trail route?
The Classic Inca Trail starts at Piscacucho at the famous km 82 with an elevation of 2,750 metres above sea level, and reaches Machu Picchu at 2,430 metres.
The trail stretches for around 45 km, including 3 mountain passes: the Warmiwanuska at 4,215 metres (also known as the Dead Woman’s Pass), the Runkaracay at 4,000 metres and finally the Phuyupatamarca at 3,680 metres.
Along the way hikers can appreciate ancient and modern settlements, local flora and fauna, tunnels, steep stairways and a bunch of Inca ruins.
The trail passes through several types of Andean environments, including alpine tundra and a fantastic cloud forest with its own microclimate.
Why do the Inca Trail?
Because it’s an unforgettable experience! First, you’ll reach one of the New Wonders of the World (Machu Picchu) after gradually building up knowledge and familiarity with the Inca Culture. Second, there’s a magical atmosphere out there – the trek didn’t change too much from the Inca times, so you will be following a richly historical path. There are plenty more reasons though: you’ll put yourself to a test (both physically and mentally), you’ll inevitably bond with some other travellers – making new friends – and you'll get to see ancient ruins and breath-taking nature.
How difficult is the Inca Trail?
The Inca Trail can be considered a moderately challenging hike, especially if you haven’t done any long trek before or you aren’t particularly fit, or if you haven’t properly adjusted to the altitude.
Long-distance runners will probably find the trek easier than bulkier body-types. We are neither types, but we do train at the gym regularly and have a decent fitness level, yet we found some bits of the hike very challenging on our legs and lungs.
But don’t be put off by all of this!
The trail is NOT dangerous, and the beauty of the scenery and the happiness from completing such a historical trek will make every drop of sweat worth it. Also, the guides are fantastic and they will always help you to complete the journey.
When is the best time to do the Inca Trail?
The weather in the Andes is almost impossible to predict.
The best time for the Inca Trail is unanimously considered to be the dry season, from May to September (Peru’s winter). The days are mostly sunny and hot, the evenings quite cold, the vegetation lush especially between May and June. The downside is that the trail is crowded and the bookings need to be made months in advance. April and October are a good shoulder season with some chances to get the rain.
On the other hand, the wet season (from November to March) is far less crowded, but during this time heavy rain is guaranteed, and hiking and camping under the rain might not be for everyone. The Inca Trail is closed in February.
What is the best travel agency for the Inca Trail?
We chose the top-rated, equal-employer Alpaca Expeditions. They are extremely well-organised, 100% Peruvian and pay the porters fairly. They seemed to be the best choice from a quality and sustainability perspective. And in fact we loved our time with Teddy and Raul!
How much does the Inca Trail cost?
Prices for the Inca Trail are almost everywhere in US Dollars. You pay the deposit beforehand and then the balance cash in Peruvian Soles.
The 4D-3N experience with Alpaca Expeditions cost us 740$ USD (625€) per person all inclusive: food, water, transportation, guides, porters and the rent of sleeping bags, airmats and walking sticks. There are some other good agencies doing the trail, but beware of the ones offering prices below 600$ USD, they might not pay the porters fairly. Tipping for the porters and guide is never included in the original price, so it’s good to add some money to a common pot at the end of the trip, and show your gratitude based on how happy you are with the experience (as tips are not mandatory). We left around S/170 (40€) per person to be shared between porters and guides.
Is it necessary to book the Inca Trail in advance?
It’s important to book well in advance, at least 4-6 months before your trip to Peru, especially if you are a larger group and not so flexible with dates.
How do I book the Inca Trail?
The government releases 500 permits per day for the Inca Trail: 300 for the guides and porters and 200 for the hikers. There can’t be more than 500 people per day on the trail.
The process to book a permit usually follows this path:
Check the calendar in the Inca Trail Permit Availability page, to see if there’s space for your dates.
Contact your favourite agency through their forms and follow their indications.
Pay the deposit to block it.
When booking with an agency a Classic Inca Trail package, they will contact you with a detailed list of information to provide and all the necessary steps to complete the booking.
The booking will include everything you need for your adventure – food, transportations, Machu Picchu ticket and tour, etc. The only things not included in the price are the rentals that need to be paid separately (i.e. walking poles, sleeping bags) and the optional visit to Huayna Picchu.
Do I need a travel insurance for the Inca Trail?
Insurance is not mandatory but it's nice to have for these types of activities. We chose Columbus Direct, with great discounts if you book with your partner or friends.
BEFORE THE TREK
What is the fitness level needed to do the Inca Trail?
You will read that the trek is for everyone, and that’s true. Everyone goes at their pace – one of the two guides will always be at the tail of the group with the slowest ones. We personally think that a moderate level of fitness will make it more enjoyable and less strenuous on your body and mind. And you should properly complete the steps for altitude acclimatisation.
How do I get acclimated to high altitude?
Acute mountain sickness (also known as soroche in Peru) is a condition affecting people reaching heights of 3,000 metres and above. It may be light (shortness of breath, heart pounding) or intense (headache, loss of appetite, extreme tiredness, nausea, etc). This is the way the body responds to the lack of oxygen in the air. Symptoms usually develop within the first day or two at high altitude.
To prevent the soroche, it’s best to take it easy and drink plenty of fluid as soon as you arrive at an altitude around 3,000 metres. Mate de coca, or coca tea, is quite helpful to get used to the altitude. They serve it in hotels in Arequipa and Cusco, as well as every morning during the Inca Trail. You can also buy coca candies in most shops in Cusco, easy to chew as you hike.
Try to avoid cigarettes, alcohol and heavy food. If symptoms aggravate, it’s important to seek medical attention and descend to a lower altitude. We started taking two tablets a day of Acetazolamide a couple of days before the trek and during the ascent, then stopped as we had no particular sign of soroche.
Where do I leave my valuables before the Inca Trek?
We left all our suitcases in the storage room of the hotel we were staying in. Most agencies also offer the opportunity to store everything in their offices.
Do I need cash on the Inca Trail?
Yes. We had around S/350 (around 100€) in cash each, most of it for tipping the porters at the end, but we allowed ourselves 15-20€ to buy snacks along the way in case of emergency. Bring Soles, the Peruvian currency. US Dollars are accepted at times, but it’s best to go for Soles.
Do I need to bring snacks on the Inca Trail?
Yes, it is highly recommended. Most agencies will hand in some basic fruit and biscuits for the day, but it’s always great to have additional snacks at hand.
Suggested shopping list: chocolate bars, protein bars, nuts, dried fruit, cookies, beef jerky. We stocked up at Decathlon in London, but there are also plenty of well-equipped shops in Cusco. Alternatively, there are a few villages during the Inca Trail where you can buy some stuff.
What to pack for the Inca Trail?
We recommend packing as light as possible and keeping in mind that Peru’s weather is unpredictable, therefore it’s ideal to dress in layers. No stress when packing at home - if you forget something, you can buy everything you need in Cusco, from clothes to camera equipment.
Before the trek the agency will give you a duffle bag to fill with the bulk of your things up to a maximum of 7 kg: sleeping bag, airmat, heavier clothes for the night, 2nd pair of shoes, etc.
During the trek, the porters will carry this heavy duffle bag, so you’ll just have to carry the “day backpack”: this day-pack shouldn’t be heavier than 4-5 kg, or you’ll have a hard time on the trek. For each day we packed water, snacks, waterproof clothes, wet wipes, bug spray, sunscreen, our camera and basic medical equipment (but our guides and porters had all the necessary if we somehow hurt ourselves).
Both Caro and I had a 40L bag from Decathlon each: it was fine, but we would have preferred the 32L one, less bulky, but big enough to fit the day necessary.
How is the pick-up from lodging organised?
On the first day of the track, pick up from Cusco is from 4 to 4.30 am, and the exact time will be confirmed during the briefing, depending on where you are lodging. If you’re not over excited by the upcoming trek, you can catch up on sleep in the bus as it’s just a couple of hours until you reach km 82 in Ollantaytambo, where the trek begins.
ON THE TREK
How are the toilets and showers on the Inca Trail?
There are squat toilets and small buildings with showers along the Inca Trail. The shower water is extra cold, as it comes down straight from the mountains.
Let’s put it this way, the toilets are not the most hygienic place on Earth but in case of emergency they are better than nothing. You CAN’T flush toilet paper or wet wipes, so you have to store them in a sealed bag (yikes!) and bin them when you see a garbage can.
Alpaca Expeditions is equipped with a portable toilet at every campsite, kept clean by the porters. It was okay to use and usually located in a small tent pitched a few metres away from the camp (not too far though!).
How is the campsite set up?
The campsite is set up by the porters and it’s really well organised. There are different sections: the big dining tent, the busy kitchen tent, the toilet tent and the sleeping tents.
The sleeping tents usually accommodate two hikers and the tour company will try to match couples, or friends. Lone travellers might end up having a tent on their own, if there’s enough available space, or they might have to share with someone from their group.
Who are the porters on the Inca Trail?
The porters are the engine of the trekking group. The “travelling campsite” moves along the trail on their legs. They are usually men and women from the communities around the Cusco area, all speaking Quechua as their first language, and Spanish as second one. They are all very kind. We chatted with some of them and it was interesting to get to know a bit of their culture.
Each porter can carry a max of 25 kg as per government regulations, but we read that some companies tend to circumvent the rules for the weight they can carry, their eating/sleeping standards and age. The attention to these standards was one of the reasons why we chose Alpaca Expeditions. We tried their heavy bags on for a few minutes, and we can guarantee that 25 kg on a trek like this is quite a burden.
How is eating and drinking on the Inca Trail?
Eating on the Inca Trail is surprisingly good, especially when you pick top-notch companies.
We had a porter-chef cooking some of the best lunches and dinners of our holiday right in the middle of the jungle: stunning yucca croquettes, chicken and rice, trouts in mango sauce, homemade nachos & guacamole and even a cake! The portions were huge and personal requests (vegetarian, gluten-free) were also accommodated.
We had some nice afternoon snacks too, with tea, coffee, biscuits, fresh fruits and popcorn.
The water was boiled every morning and distributed to the group for the day ahead. It wasn’t cold or particularly tasty, but it did the job.
What about tips?
Tipping for the porters and guide is never included in the original price, so it’s good to add some money to a common pot at the end of the trip, and show your gratitude based on how happy you are with the experience (as tips are not mandatory). We left around S/170 (40€) per person to be shared between porters and guides.
How is the Machu Picchu tour on the last day?
When reaching Machu Picchu with a travel company, they will be in charge of the Machu Picchu tour. It’s approx. a 2-hour guided tour with A LOT of useful insights about the ruins. When the guided tour ends, you’ll be able to roam free (not 100% free though, as you still have to follow certain suggested paths) and explore the site for a while.
Finally you’ll take the bus back to the village of Aguas Calientes (it takes 20-25 minutes) where you’ll join the rest of the group and guides for a last lunch together (optional!).
After lunch your tour guides will hand out the train ticket from Agua Calientes to Ollantaytambo, where the Alpaca driver will meet you and drive you back to Cusco.
OUR INCA TRAIL EXPERIENCE
Day 1 | The Inca Flat
Day one, and our alarm went off at 4 am.
We were all packed and set from the night before, so in 10 minutes we left our suitcases in the hotel’s reception and got picked up by the tour-bus at 4.15 am, on the dot.
Everything went incredibly fast from the moment we set foot on the bus to the beginning of the trek a few hours later: the energising first breakfast prepared at the Porter House, the first meeting with our travel companions, the checkpoint at km 82 (passport ready!), the first group photo.
Then the trek suddenly started.
The vibe was a combination of excited chatting, curiosity and legit fear of the unknown – is it going to be hard? How many treks have our fellow travellers done before? Should we spare our energy for the climb ahead instead of chit-chatting around?
As promised by our guides, the first two hours of the trek were a gentle start as we covered the so-called “Inca Flat”, a wide and slightly ascending trail alongside the Urubamba river covered in trees and scrub brush.
Our guide Teddy stopped at various points along the way to tell us the history of the trail and the Incan people who lived on it, or to show examples of the unique flora and fauna around us.
The first proper stop was at an Inca site called Patallacta (or Llactapata), a wide area displaying ancient walls with niches, only three kilometres away in a straight line from Machu Picchu mountain.
This complex was first noticed by the Western world in 1912 when famous Yale University archeologist Hiram Bingham – noted for rediscovering Machu Picchu the year before – stumbled upon it.
From Patallacta it was a 2-hour trek to reach our first lunch stop, a flat campsite area set up by our porters ahead of our arrival.
That lunch set the bar high for our food expectations. Quality and presentation were impeccable. The homemade guacamole and traut in mango sauce were our highlights of the day!
After lunch all we wanted was to take a small nap under the mild sun, but another 2 ½ hours of trek were waiting for us. On this last stretch we could definitely feel the lack of sleep of the night before and the first signs of fatigue – which luckily were replaced by new excitement the moment we reached our campsite in Ayapata (3,300 metres) at around 5 pm.
The campsite was ready for us, each tent provided with a small bowl of hot water and soap to rinse our hands and face, the dinner tent set up with hot drinks and snacks to recharge the batteries before dinner was served by 7.30 pm.
Time for the ice-breaking introductions, everyone including all the porters introduced themselves to the group – that’s when we found out that the oldest of the porters was around 60 years old!
Day 2 | The challenge!
We were woken up at 5 am by our porters.
They kindly approached each tent handling a hot cup of coca tea and a bowl of hot water and soap. Music for our ears, every morning.
We dressed up and packed our things in the dark of our tent (that’s where the head torch came in handy!) and joined the group for a hearty breakfast. We got used to the morning routine pretty easily: filling our water bottles, stocking up with snacks for the day (fruit and biscuits), adjusting the life-saving walking poles to the upcoming ascent or descent.
The porters took care of all the rest.
We knew that day-2 would be the longest and hardest day of the trek.
On the 4-hour hike leading to the first pass of the day we went through a variety of incredible landscapes and vegetation. The frosty air of the early morning gradually faded away, giving space to a warm sun and a clear morning.
Amazing views of the snow-capped peaks all around us, really unforgettable.
When we finally approached the giant Inca stone steps leading up to the Dead Woman’s Pass, excitement kicked in as the end-point didn’t look so far away. But we soon realised that this last bit was actually the steepest and the most challenging one.
We will be honest, it was a tough beast to tame – the legs were fine, but the breathlessness kicked in, and we can’t tell if it was due to the altitude or the steep slope.
Finally we made it, we were right on top of Dead Woman’s Pass, or Warmiwañusca in Quechua!
Breathing the thin air at 4,215 metres and enjoying the marvellous peaks around us.
We learned that the ominous name of this pass comes from the shape of the mountain, resembling that of a dead woman lying on her back. No one died up there, good to know...
Quick break to rest the legs and take some memorable photos, and then we set off again to reach the lunch spot at Pacaymayu Valley through a 1 ½ hour steep descent – a 600-metre drop along a beautiful stone pathway requiring quite some focus and energy to master.
After the delicious lunch in Pacaymayu Valley, we tackled the second pass of our day, namely a 2-hour and 400 metres ascent to the Runkuracay pass.
On the way up we stopped at Runkuracay ruins, a small Inca site of semicircular shape that served as a vital resting and relay station for the Inca messengers. These messengers were specialised badass runners, who sprinted along Inca roads with important messages – such as the imminent invasion of the Spaniards.
We looked like lazy “couch-potatoes” compared to them!
From Runkuracay pass it was another hour downhill, hiking through jungle-like vegetation full of butterflies and hummingbirds to reach the magnificent site Sayacmarca, also called the “Inaccessible Town” because it sits on the edge of a cliff and it’s barricaded on three sides by steep drop-offs.
Entrance to these ruins is through 98 uneven steps carved into the side of the mountain. The site was our favourite of the whole Inca Trail, with a fascinating Sun Temple and a residential part consisting of a labyrinth of narrow corridors and rooms, overlooking the Aobamba Valley.
Later in the afternoon, we arrived at the campsite Chaquicocha (3,600 metres), where we were met by the applause of the cheerful porters who had already set up the camp for us. Dinner was a joyous moment where everyone shared their feelings and impressions of the day, with the adrenaline slowly leaving space to tiredness.
Thanks to a clear sky, that night we stayed up late for some stargazing and to play around with long-exposure photos.
Day 3 | A day in the jungle
Day 3 definitely felt easy, we can guarantee it.
After a 6.30 am start that felt like a treat compared to the previous days, we set off for a 2-hour hike along another part of “Inca Flat” (gradual inclines), entering the jungle, or Cloud Forest.
A slight push uphill to the last peak at Phuyupatamarka (3,600 m) for another sneak peak of Machu Picchu mountain, and then a 3-hour walk down a long flight of steps covered with jungle-like vegetation to our last campsite.
This bit of the trek was our favourite, very dreamlike in spite of the concentration needed to go down those large and slightly slippery stones. This day is where the walking poles proved crucial in supporting our tired legs and knees, and also where Caro sprayed her entire body with insect repellent.
During the descent, we visited two Inca ruins: Phuyupatamarka (“Town in the Clouds”) and Intipata (“Terraces of the Sun”).
We really loved Intipata, an extensive terraced agricultural complex only recently cleared from the vegetation and made accessible to tourists.
The view on the Urubamba valley from here was definitely our favourite one, with uncountable photo opportunities!
Another 30-minute descent and we arrived at our campsite near Wiñay Wayna around 1:00 pm. This camp is strategically located in proximity to Machu Picchu and it’s shared with other groups. It’s obviously a bit more crowded and equipped with toilets and showers (cold water only) – given the amount of people who use the facilities they were not very clean, so we happily skipped the shower because – really – who cares if you stink a bit when you’ve nearly completed a 45 km hike!
After lunch and some relaxation, we set off again to visit the Wiñay Wayna site (“Forever Young”), just a few steps below the campsite.
Constructed into a steep hillside overlooking the Urubamba river, Wiñay Wayna boasts an incredibly complex system of Incan terraces, once used for agriculture. The site is unanimously considered the most spectacular Inca site on the trail after Machu Picchu, but we honestly had run out of energy for the day and could not fully explore it as it deserves.
Our guide Raul put on a great show explaining the importance of the site and joined the dots of everything we had learnt throughout the trek.
The last dinner was more of a feast, with a cake at the end to celebrate the good time spent together and to thank the amazing porters (it was also a good time to give them our tips). Almost everyone chose an early bedtime as it was time to be wise and save the energies for the last push on day 4.
Machu Picchu – the chequered flag of this great adventure – was just a few kilometres away.
Day 4 | Nice to meet you, Machu Picchu
At 3 am on the dot the porters came around our tents - “It’s time. Wake up guys!”
We packed our stuff quickly in the pitch dark, and made our way to the checkpoint, 10 minutes away from the camp. As hoped, we were the first group to get in the line, and grabbed the sheltered seats to (more or less) comfortably wait for the gates to open at 5.30 am. The other groups had to wait standing in line, unprotected from possible rain or wind. We sipped our warm coca tea and ate our breakfast mostly in silence, sleepy and tired from the days before, but at the same time excited for the adventure ahead.
At 5.30 am we got on our feet to start what we remember as the inner journey to the Inti Punktu (“Sun Gate”).
It was an-hour uphill trek along a narrow path with everyone in a single-line, focused on our breath, energy and expectations of the beauty that would soon welcome us.
A dreamlike experience in a natural tunnel created by the lush vegetation and intricate trees, escorted by a pale sun and the morning mist that stayed with us most of that day.
We reached the Sun Gate by 6.30, the first among many groups that were behind us on the climb, and luckily caught a sunny glimpse of the spectacular Lost City of the Incas below us, before thick clouds suddenly covered the sky.
From there it was just an hour trek down to reach the final checkpoint and enter Machu Picchu. A variety of feelings hit us: happiness and satisfaction of having completed the trek, awe in front of such an incredible site that we’d always seen in books.
The weather at Machu Picchu is pretty unpredictable and changes quickly.
The thick clouds that had met us an hour earlier were gradually pushed away by sunshine, just in time to take some memorable pictures before the big crowds arrived and before a thin rain hit us finally during the 2-hour private guided tour.
Needless to say, as you get to understand the ruins better you’ll keep asking yourself how the ancient Incans could have built such a formidable city without modern machinery. All stonework and buildings are carved and placed with geographical and astronomical knowledge to line up with the sun’s winter and summer solstice positions.
We don’t want to spoil Machu Picchu too much, it’s a place worth visiting in your life.
After the guided tour we explored the ruins on our own for some time and got our passport stamped with the neat design of the Lost City, before taking the bus back to Aguas Calientes – a rural village crossed by a wild river, with a train station, restaurants, shops, hotels and a lively movida in the main street.
One last hug and good wishes to our guides Teddy and Raul before jumping on the picturesque train back to Cusco.
Happy, tired, sweaty, jelly-legged.
But also proud to have completed this adventure.
Photos are never enough - you know - so if you want to get inspired further check out the gallery below for more Inca Trail memories!
During a summer stroll through our beloved Camden Town we bumped into a colourful shop called "To Home from London" and we fell in love with the original hand-painted souvenirs in the form of mugs, magnetic coasters, eco friendly shopping bags and more.