Clerkenwell walking tour

Our Clerkenwell tour starts by Farringdon Underground Station and ends in Exmouth Market. We cycled through it, but it can definitely be done as a walk (~2km, a couple of hours if you stop for photos and little detours through the many tiny alleys like we did).

Most of this tour is spent exploring the streets of Clerkenwell, a quirky little quarter of London perched on a hill above the River Fleet valley.

In the 19th century, it became one of the most impoverished and crime-ridden districts of the metropolis.

Dickens knew its streets and alleyways intimately, and has left us with vivid descriptions of the filth and squalor found here before work commenced in the 1860's on a project to wipe out the slums once and for all.

Known as the "Holborn Valley Improvement", the scheme changed the face of the neighbourhood, and destroyed, amongst other places, Field Lane – the location of Fagin's Lair in Oliver Twist.

Yet many places of that era survive today, and several locations are still reminiscent of the darker side of Victorian London.

*Small disclaimer: we did our Clerkenwell tour on a bright winter Sunday during the Covid-19 lockdown (December 2020) when most restaurants and pubs were unfortunately shut. As such, we could not personally test the food scene, but we plan on going back as soon as London opens up again!

➢ Farringdon Underground Station

This lovely walk starts at Farringdon station. You can arrive by tube, train, bus, bike or on foot from other parts of central London.

However you get there, make your way east from the station to Cowcross Street. Turn right and walk down it, taking in the restaurants and cafes as you go. You’ll start to get a feel for the area’s food scene here.

➢ Smithfield Market

When you reach the end of Cowcross Street, cross Charterhouse Street and enter Smithfield, one of the most historic parts of London. As you walk, you’ll notice the colourful gates of Smithfield Market across the street.

Dedicated to meat, this impressive market dates back to the 10th century and is the UK capital’s sole remaining wholesale market in continuous operation since medieval times.

➢ Charterhouse Square

Back on Charterhouse Street, take a little detour and head up towards Charterhouse Square.

On the way you’ll pass the famous Fox & Anchor gastropub with its charming Art Nouveau tiling and grotesques.

The square is a distillate of history. On your left you’ll see the Charterhouse – built in the 14th century on the site of a burial ground for victims of the Black Death, the Charterhouse has served since its founding as everything from a Carthusian monastery to a boy school.

➢ St John's Gate

Head back on Charterhouse Street towards Smithfield, but this time turn right onto St John Street.

Along the way, you’ll pass by famous restaurant St. John. Opened in 1994, it specialised in “nose-to-tail eating”, with typical dishes that include pigs’ ears, ducks’ hearts, trotters, pigs’ tails and bone marrow.

After the restaurant, take a slight left on St John’s Lane.

Don’t miss narrow Passing Alley on your right, so narrow that maximum two people can walk it side by side!

At the end of St John’s Lane you’ll find yourself under a historic stone archway called St John’s Gate that houses the Museum of the Order of Saint John. It tells the story of the ancient religious military order from the 11th century to today.

You can visit the museum if you’d like to, or continue your Clerkenwell walk by going under the arch and into St John’s Square, landing onto busy Clerkenwell Road.

➢ Jerusalem Passage

Cross over busy Clerkenwell Road and keep walking north through St John’s Square. Head up the skinny lane that is Jerusalem Passage and don’t be fooled by the appearances, this hidden corner has an international food vibe, whether you like sushi (then suit yourself at Sushi Tetsu, one of London’s most famous sushi restaurants) or Belgian beers (the superb Dovetail is your place, with a choice of over 100 Belgian beers).

➢ Clerkenwell Close

Turn left onto Aylesbury Street and Clerkenwell Green, then turn right on Clerkenwell Close.

Time for a pint at the Three Kings, an old favourite in the area.

The pub's hanging sign was a local landmark, a trio of Kings comprising Elvis, Henry VIII and King Kong. Londonist wrote an article about the history of this funny sign which unfortunately has been removed from the pub.

“Eccentric” does quite not describe the inside. The walls are lined with pretty much everything that ever existed.

Just a few steps ahead of the pub at 15 Clerkenwell Close lies the gem of the entire walk – a hidden little pocket garden with pebbled floor, adding some colour and magic to the dramatic new residential building that towers over it.

➢ Exmouth Market

Time to close the loop in great style, walk your way to Exmouth Market.

This street has some of the best restaurants in London and there’s a vibrant atmosphere day and night.

We finally stopped for a well-deserved take away at Briki, a deli and coffee brewery serving Mediterranean food and hot drinks. Totally recommended, we obviously tried their award winning coffee and mouth watering melomakarona, a Greek Christmas dessert made mainly from flour, olive oil, and honey.