THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE COLCA TREK
ABOUT THE COLCA TREK
What is the Colca Trek?
The Colca Trek is an amazing trekking experience in one of the most breathtaking places on earth – the Colca Canyon.
The Colca Canyon is one of the biggest canyons in the world and it’s located in the Andes in southern Peru (around 160 km from Arequipa).
It reaches 3,270 metres at its maximum depth, and it stretches for more than 100 km.
This colourful valley was excavated by the powerful waters of the Colca river and is home to three pre-Inca cultures still living here: the Kollowas, Cabanas and Ccaccatapay.
Depending on the source of the information, it’s either the 2nd or the 3rd deepest canyon in the world.
At the centre of the canyon there’s an oasis (called Sangalle) with a unique tropical climate.
Thanks to the incredible scenic views, dramatic cliffs and varied biodiversity (including the largest birds of prey in the world, the Andean Condor), the Colca Canyon is one of the best places to visit in Peru for trekking and extreme sports: canoeing, mountain biking, etc.
Colca “Trek” VS Colca “Tour”
Be careful when booking; the Colca “trek” and the “tour” are completely different.
The “tour” is a 1-day trip by bus and usually includes a visit at the condor’s lookout and then sightseeing of the canyon from the rim: there is very little hiking involved.
The “trek” is packed with action and will take you in & out of the canyon – this is the experience we chose.
You can trek the canyon on your own or hire a guide. The guided treks usually take 2 days (2D-1N, full trek at a faster pace) or 3 days (3D-2N, full trek at a slower pace).
The guided Colca Trek includes a morning stop at the viewpoint La Cruz del Condor to spot the Andean Condors and a break at the hot thermal pools near Chivay for a relaxing bath, on the way back to Arequipa.
What is the Colca Trek route?
We did the 2D-1N Colca Trek, hiring a private guide with the company Trek The Colca, who drove us from Arequipa all the way to Cabanaconde, a small village perched on the rim of the canyon, where all guided treks start and terminate.
The first morning is an aggressive descent towards the bottom of the canyon, crossing the Colca river on the suspended bridge to reach the village of San Juan de Chuccho for lunch. The afternoon is spent trekking up and down on a mixed-terrain path, crossing two local communities (Cosñirhua and Malata) before reaching the lodge at the Sangalle Oasis at dinner time. In all, you’ll cover 19 km on the first day.
The second day is quite a “killer”. It starts at 4 am and consists of 5 km of steep uphill trekking (1,100 metres ascent) to reach Cabanaconde before the sun rises in all its strength on the canyon.
If you opt for the 3D-2N trek, you’ll do the same path but you’ll sleep the first night in San Juan de Chuccho and the second in Sangalle, enjoying the oasis during daytime and spreading the distance of the first day over two days.
If you have the time, we definitely recommend the 3D-2N option, as the pace is a bit slower and, as such, less intense on your body, giving some extra time to relax at the oasis.
Why do the Colca Trek?
Simply because trekking the Colca is a unique experience: the panoramas are jaw-dropping, the nature is lush and wild, the people friendly and you can spot the majestic Andean Condors.
Predictably, this canyon is becoming one of the most coveted tourist destinations in Peru.
How difficult is the Colca Trek?
The Colca Trek is a challenging hike. The altitude and steep climb make it quite demanding, especially for amateur trekkers.
It’s definitely doable, if you’re overall healthy and fit, but come prepared to sweat. The first day descent will put your ankles, knees and quads to a test, while the second day climb will put a lot of stress on your quads and calves - and of course on your stamina.
The effort to climb in & out is totally worth it, so don’t get put off by this!
We suggest to allow a couple of days after hiking the Colca to rest your legs.
When is the best time to do the Colca Trek?
The Colca Trek can be done any time of the year, both during the dry (May-September) and wet season (November-March), with the relative pros and cons.
The shoulder season (April and October) offer decent weather and less tourists on the road. We did our trek at the end of April and it was sunny and warm during the day and quite chilly at night.
Is it mandatory to join an agency for the Colca Trek?
No, it is not, you can trek the Colca by yourself. There are multiple routes you can take, most of them starting in Cabanaconde.
If you are an expert hiker and you are not interested into knowing more about the culture and geography of the area, you can do the trek without a guide.
What is the best travel agency for the Colca Trek?
There are many travel agencies in Arequipa to book the Colca Trek.
We chose Trek The Colca as their website looked solid and their support team was very responsive.
As it was our first trek and we did not know our pace or what to expect from the hike, we arranged a private trek over two days for the three of us. We had a great experience with the tour guide, Gian Carlos – one of the best Peruvians we met on our entire trip.
We suggest you do your homework comparing reviews and prices of the best agencies.
How much does the Colca Trek cost?
Prices for the Colca Trek are almost always in US Dollars. You will pay the deposit beforehand and then the balance cash in Peruvian Soles.
We spent 160$ USD (around 135€) per person for the private 2D-1N Colca Trek with Trek the Colca.
The price included everything (round trip in private mini van, meals, dedicated guide, lodging) apart from a few extras: the last day’s lunch in Chivay (S/30, around 8€), the entrance tickets to the Canyon (S/70, around 15€) and the Hot Springs in Chivay (S/15, around 3€).
If you are happy to do the trek in a bigger group, you can save and spend 46$ USD (~35€) per person.
Is it necessary to book the Colca Trek in advance?
It’s not necessary to book too early as there are plenty of travel agencies in Arequipa organising guided treks. However, if you have a preferred agency you might want to book them a month or two in advance to ensure they have space for your preferred times and for the lodging at the oasis.
Do I need a travel insurance for the Colca Trek?
Insurance is not mandatory but it's nice to have for these types of activities. We chose Columbus Direct, with great discounts if you book as a party with your partner or friend.
BEFORE THE TREK
What is the fitness level needed to do the Colca Trek?
We think that an overall good fitness level is needed to tackle the Colca Trek and actually enjoy it!
This is not going to be a walk in the park, but it doesn’t need any specific training, other than a proper acclimatisation to the altitude beforehand.
Long-distance runners will probably find the trek easier than bulkier body-types. We are neither types, but we do train at the gym regularly and have a decent fitness level, yet both the step descent on the first day and the steep uphill on the second day were definitely challenging at times.
How do I get acclimated to high altitude?
Acute mountain sickness (also known as soroche in Peru) is a condition affecting people reaching heights of 3,000 metres and above. It may be light (shortness of breath, heart pounding) or intense (headache, loss of appetite, extreme tiredness, nausea, etc). This is the way the body responds to the lack of oxygen in the air. Symptoms usually develop within the first day or two at high altitude.
To prevent the soroche, it’s best to take it easy and drink plenty of fluid as soon as you arrive at an altitude around 3,000 metres. Mate de coca, or coca tea, is quite helpful to get used to the altitude. They serve it in hotels in Arequipa and Cusco. You can also buy coca candies in most shops in Arequipa, they are easy to chew as you hike.
Try to avoid cigarettes, alcohol and heavy food. If symptoms aggravate, it’s important to seek medical attention and descend to a lower altitude.
We started taking two tablets a day of Acetazolamide in Arequipa a couple of days before the trek and during the ascent, then stopped as we had no particular sign of soroche.
Where do I leave my valuables before the Colca Trek?
We left all our suitcases in the storage room of the hotel we were staying in. Some agencies also offer the opportunity to store everything in their offices.
Do I need cash on the Colca Trek?
Yes. We had around S/200 (around 50€) in cash each, for the extras (see above) and to buy snacks and water along the way. Bring Soles, the Peruvian currency. US Dollars are accepted at times, but it’s best to go for Soles.
Do I need to bring snacks on the Colca Trek?
Yes, you have to. Some agencies might give you something to snack, but it’s best to come prepared.
Suggested shopping list: chocolate bars, protein bars, nuts, dried fruit, cookies, beef jerky. We stocked up at Decathlon in London, but there are also plenty of well-equipped shops in Arequipa, and a couple of kiosks during the trek (much needed to buy water, the most consumed good along the trek!).
What to pack for the Colca Trek?
We recommend packing as light as possible and keeping in mind that Peru’s weather is unpredictable, so it’s ideal to dress in layers. No stress when packing at home – if you forget something, you can buy everything you need in Cusco, from clothes to camera equipment.
There won’t be any porter to help you along the way, so pack wisely and avoid anything unnecessary!
We suggest keeping your 2-day backpack around 5 kg.
We packed water, snacks, waterproof clothes, a jumper for the chilly evening at the oasis, wet wipes, bug spray, sunscreen, hat and sunglasses and basic medical equipment (but our guide had all the necessary).
Comfortable hiking shoes are a must. If you opt to visit the thermal pools in Chivayy take with you a towel and slippers.
Both Caro and I had a 40L bag from Decathlon each: it was fine, but we would have preferred the 32L one, less bulky, but big enough to fit the necessary.
How is the pick-up from lodging organised?
On the first day of the trek, the pick up from Arequipa is at around 3 am.
The exact time will be confirmed by the agency, depending on where you are lodging. If you are one of those lucky human being able to sleep in a van, you can catch up on sleep during the +5 hours trip between Arequipa and Cabanaconde.
ON THE TREK
How is the accommodation at the Sangalle Oasis?
We stayed at the Oasis Paraiso Ecolodge, in the Sangalle Oasis at the bottom of the canyon.
The agency we booked with (Trek The Colca) selected the lodge based on availability.
The Oasis Paraiso Ecolodge has a nice outdoor pool, double and triples rooms and a small rustic restaurant where we had dinner. The rooms have basic services – comfortable single beds with blankets and bathroom with shower (cold water only).
We arrived after sunset so we couldn’t enjoy the outdoor area too much.
How is eating and drinking on the Colca Trek?
In the 2D-1N Colca Trek, you’ll have lunch in the village of San Juan de Chuccho and dinner at the selected guesthouse in the Sangalle Oasis.
The food was simple, but good: soups, rice, meat, potatoes and fruit for dessert.
During the trek you’ll snack and drink water a lot! You will be able to buy some extra snacks and drinks at the few kiosks on the way. Our favourite kiosk had a sweet lady showing off her chicha de jora pouring style!
OUR COLCA TREK EXPERIENCE
Day 1 | Down the gorge
It was an early start for what would be two very long and intense days.
At 3 am on the dot we left our suitcases in the hotel locker room.
We were ready and excited as never before. It was the first real trekking experience for us, while our friend Francesco already had some miles on his legs.
Our cheerful guide Gian Carlos welcomed us on the mini-van and so we departed direction Cabanaconde, a small village near the rim of the canyon, a 6-hour drive from Arequipa.
Needless to say, after the introductions and agreeing to speak Spanish during the tour (Gian Carlo speaks English, but we wanted to practice our Spanish), we fell asleep and woke up three hours later just in time for breakfast in the village of Chivay. Breakfast was very simple (bread, butter, jam, coffee and mate tea) but enough to give a boost of energy to our tired souls.
We then continued to the much anticipated viewpoint La Cruz del Condor to spot the famous Andean Condors, one of the three sacred animals in Peru legends (together with the puma and the snake) and the largest flying birds in the world.
There were very few tourists at the mirador, so we could pick the best spot and patiently wait for the condors to glide on the air currents – right, despite their impressive wingspan, Andean Condors struggle to fly due to their enormous weight, so they prefer windy areas where they can be carried effortlessly on the air currents.
From there it was a 20-minute drive to reach the Mirador de San Miguel, the starting point of our trek.
We exchanged a few words with the owner of the little kiosk selling water and snacks, where we also bought our bamboo trekking poles… but only one pole each. Looking back after our Inca Trail experience we wish we’d taken two – they are real life-savers for your knees!
From the Mirador we could see the deep rocky canyon in all its majesty, carved by the Colca River that looked like a tiny dot at the end of the gorge. Our guide told us that the name Colca Canyon comes from the small niches (colca) in the rock cliffs. In the ancient times, these niches were used for storing crops, as well as tombs for the high society.
Our guide Gian Carlos, a young man from Puno, named our small gang “Pumas” and introduced our motto “Hakuna Matata” that would surprisingly cheer us up in the few occasions where our legs and mind couldn’t cope with the trek anymore!
The first three hours of our adventure were pure downhill with frequent turns and steep stone steps.
Gian Carlos pretty much let us go at our own moderate pace, stopping here and there to talk about the geography and the flora of the canyon.
Some more experienced trekkers might find the downhill easy, but we honestly found it quite tough and distressful on our knees and legs in general. Thriving cacti and high dry fields of weeds offered little or no shade from the hot sun rising above us.
We immediately realised a couple of things: we should have opted for two walking poles and lighter backpacks; yes to sunscreen, hats or head covers, and being dressed in layers; staying hydrated under the relentless sun is key, so stock up on extra water if possible (and snacks).
We finally reached the suspension bridge over the Colca River and took a small break to stretch our legs.
Seeing dozens of hikers with our same problems (quads on fire, knees refusing to bend, etc.) made us realise that lots of tourists come to the Colca Canyon thinking it’s going to be easy; everyone soon realises that this is a tough client, you need to respect it.
The breathtaking panoramas are worth every drop of sweat though!
From the bridge it was a fairly short but intense climb up to San Juan de Chuccho, a picturesque village surrounded by lush vegetation and old Incan agricultural terraces.
This is where Gian Carlos proved to be a passionate expert of local flora – as we passed different plants and fruit trees, he would pluck a few leaves and show us which plants heal cuts and diseases, which ones repel mosquitos, and even crushed one and painted our friend Francesco’s face with the red ink.
Not to mention that there’s no fruit tree he wouldn’t approach with a big smile on his face, happy to let us taste local exotic exotic fruits.
Lunch at San Juan de Chuccho was at a local family farm, with colourful outdoor tables surrounded by fruit trees: a tasty vegetable soup to start and then rice with beef.
We enjoyed some well-deserved rest and shade before getting back on our feet for the second part of the day – “only” 11 km to our accommodation in Sangalle.
The afternoon was a long walk into the deepest part of the Canyon, mostly flat with some short climbs, crossing different scenarios and terrains and cutting through the local communities of Cosñirhua and Malata.
The last kilometres were surreal and blessed by a wonderful warm sunset light.
Everything was quiet and peaceful: a few horses grazing in a ranch, a small waterfall suddenly appearing on the mountain side, another wobbly bridge on the river.
We finally reached the oasis at Sangalle at dusk, a couple of hours later than planned.
The tropical oasis is dotted with rustic adobe huts and an inviting swimming pool of blue natural spring water, impossible to resist after a day walking in the dusty path. Francesco went for a dive while we splashed around in the shallow water, recharging our battery and resting our legs and feet.
All around, palm trees, steep rocky walls and snow-capped mountain peaks, such a surreal contrast.
A healthy dinner was followed by an early bedtime, to recover as much energy as possible for the much expected day two.
ph: dominikazarkowska
Day 2 | Arriba! (Up & Up)
Up and ready at 3 am, we left Sangalle and started hiking in the dark, using torch lights.
The aim was to reach the top (1,100 metres ascent) before sunrise, to avoid the heat of the morning sun on our heads. We started off strong and convinced, a couple of energy bars in our belly and nothing more, but the altitude and steep canyon slope soon took its toll on us.
Gian Carlos’s plan of action to reach the top in 3 hours was to hike for around 20 minutes non stop and then take a short break to catch up on breath.
This seemed very feasible on paper, but we soon realised that we’d need to stop multiple times to stretch our legs and fuel ourselves with chocolate, nuts and water.
The trail is a continuous loop of rocks and giant stone steps, you really need to engage your quads and glutes at best to tackle some of them.
Luckily we didn't suffer much from proper altitude sickness, we just were short on breath because of the hike and the occasional drop of energy - which Gian Carlos treated with some Agua de Florida, a typical Peruvian cologne with scents of orange flower blossom, clove, cinnamon, rose and bergamot that we rubbed in our hands and inhaled intensely for a few seconds.
On our climb we met all sorts of hikers - pro hikers going up lightly as if they were walking on a flat, elderly couples slowly but steadily conquering the peak, and the occasional hiker that had given up to the canyon and opted for a mule ride.
The sun started to rise at 6 am, casting an orange glow on the green valley and tiny houses below us, and even though we had one more hour to go we couldn't help but feeling in awe in front of such beauty.
The weather went from the dark and chilly night to the warm sunny morning, from wearing two layers to shorts and a T-shirt (and sunscreen).
At last we reached the top of the canyon, the sun fully up in the clear blue sky.
Time for some happy hugs and high fives, memorable pictures by the precipice, and off we went again for another 15 minutes flat walk to the most desired stop of the day: breakfast in Cabanaconde.
Scrambled eggs, bread and coffee was all we needed after the morning hike. It was our friend Francesco’s birthday, and Gian Carlos got him a big round shape of seasoned cheese that we cut and shared like a proper birthday cake!
After breakfast it was time to finally lay our tired bodies in the van, destination Chivay, and enjoy a panoramic route with view of pre-Incan terraces, archeological ruins and majestic volcanoes in the distance.
The first stop in Chivay were the hot springs, with water temperatures of 38°C that our achy body and muscles totally loved. Out of the hot pool and straight into the cold shower, before getting into our dusty trekking clothes again and heading for lunch.
Lunch is in a local restaurant in Chivay, buffet style, although you can opt for a-la-carte instead. I wasn't particularly hungry after the breakfast a few hours earlier, but Fab and Francesco definitely were and took the buffet option very seriously, trying pretty much every food that was on the counter.
After lunch it was time to drive back to Arequipa.
The tiredness seriously kicked in, but we found one last bit of energy to step out of the car at the national reserve Pampa Cañahuas to observe from close some seriously cute South American camelids (llamas, alpacas, vicuñas and guanacos).
Back in the bustling Arequipa, we thanked our Gian Carlos for the exciting adventure, the cheerful encouragements and endless knowledge about his land, we exchanged Facebook contacts and numbers and promised to stay in touch, hopeful that we’ll meet soon again, either in Peru or the UK or why not, Italy.
Photos are never enough - you know - so if you want to get inspired check out the gallery below for more Colca Canyon trek memories!
During a summer stroll through our beloved Camden Town we bumped into a colourful shop called "To Home from London" and we fell in love with the original hand-painted souvenirs in the form of mugs, magnetic coasters, eco friendly shopping bags and more.