MARRAKECH

Three days in Marrakech.

Traditional food, culture and luxury hammam.

Marrakech is an instant-classing destinations in Morocco, be it for its affordable flights from Europe, the colourful city markets (souk), the proximity to the desert, or just for the sunny and mild weather all year round. 

It is indeed a bit touristy but you can still feel the authenticity of a different culture in the many colours, smells and good vibes of the city.

Three full days will be enough to make you feel like you have stepped into a different world and forget about your busy life at home.

RECAP & ITINERARY

When? Mid-November. How long? 3 days. Temperature? 22-23°C during the day and 13-15°C at night. Budget? 350-450€ per person all inclusive. Planning needed? Moderate. What to book in advance? Aladdin, a riad in the medina. Booking needed? Royal Hammam at La Sultana. Cooking class at Dar Zaman. Dinner at Le Tobsil.

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• Day 1 // Land at Marrakech // Walking tour of the medina // Romantic dinner at Le Tobsil

• Day 2 // Exploring the souk // Majorelle Garden // Royal Hammam at La Sultana // Dinner at Cafe Clock

• Day 3 // Cooking Class at Dar Zaman // Evening flight back to London

CONTENT

DAR ZAMAN: THE COOKING CLASS

CAFE CLOCK: BURGER & LIVE MUSIC

LA SULTANA: LUXURY SPA & HAMMAM

LE TOBSIL: THE ROMANTIC DINNER

DAR CHERIFA:  THE LITERARY CAFE

OUR HIGHLIGHTS

DAR ZAMAN: THE COOKING CLASS

Taking a cooking class in Marrakech is the best way to blend with the locals, enjoy a great meal and learn some useful cooking tips to show off with your friends back home (100% working, we already tried).

There are many options, prices are between 50€ and 80€ pp.

We took the class at Dar Zaman and we just loved it (here).

Dar Zaman is a freshly renovated riad in the north side of the medina, owned by Peter, British-born but fully blended in Marrakech.

He'll welcome you and walk you around the northern side of the medina, through an authentic and colourful local market where you can buy spices and food at half the price of the central souk.

You’ll be astonished to see some hidden gems, one of them being the communal local baker, open all year round as bread is a key food in the Arab culture.

We were welcomed inside the bakery, a large room with a pit for the baker, an old wood fire oven and a rack where the cooling flatbread rests before being delivered around the neighbourhood by local kids.

Then it's time for Chef Karima and Hassan to take the lead.

This dynamic duo will help you cook your own classy lunch, with lots of insights on Moroccan cuisine and culture. These guys are very knowledgeable and easy-going, they speak fluent English and French and will make you feel at home from your arrival.

We prepared (and later happily ate) a sweet tomato relish, an aubergine salad and a lemon and ginger chicken tajine with olives.

Hassan is also a good photographer, so trust him for some memorable shots - see below!

The class + lunch lasts around 5 hours, costs 50€ pp and it's really an unforgettable experience.

We left the riad with great memories, new friends and a full belly.

It’s best to book the cooking class at Dar Zaman a few days in advance.

CAFE CLOCK: BURGER AND LIVE MUSIC

You can apply what Tupac said about Los Angeles to the Cafe Clock (here) in Marrakech: when you are in town, this is "the place to be".

Hidden in the heart of the Kasbah district (southern part of the medina), this melting-pot cafe is an almost-mandatory stop for every tourist. Here is where traditional food, music, art, culture and creativity cross their paths to offer you a vivid Moroccan experience.

Try their signature dish, the camel burger and don't forget to wash everything with a date milkshake (unreal good).

Prices are fair, breakfast is served all day and there are plenty of vegetarian options.

And you can enjoy all of this while listening to traditional music (often it’s Gnawa) played by local bands hosted by the Cafè on a daily basis.

Cafe Clock is also a cultural hub, and offers a variety of workshops: oud classes (to learn the most traditional Moroccan instrument), storytelling (called "hikayat", two days a week), cooking and Islamic calligraphy classes.

All in one place!

The atmosphere is lively and there are pieces of art everywhere.

Icing on the cake, the crew of young fellas working there is super friendly.

LA SULTANA: LUXURY SPA & HAMMAM

Anyone who visits Morocco should really try the Moroccan hammam.

Whether you prefer to blend with the locals in one of the many public hammam (men and women go separate ways, so say “bye” to your beloved half), or let yourself cuddle in some fancy spa, you will not regret the experience.

If you opt for the second, like we did, La Sultana is everything you have ever dreamed of. 

La Sultana is a five star riad located in the heart of the Kasbah a few minutes’ walk from the Saadians Tombs, featuring beautiful rooms, a roof-top restaurant with a breath-taking view on the medina, and traditional spa treatments.

Sleeping there was out of our budget, but the other services are affordable and worth the money (here is their spa brochure).

The most 'simple' yet traditional treatment is the Royal Hammam, 45 minutes of pure relax for 400 MAD per person (38€).

The heat of the hammam lets the black soap penetrate your skin, which is then vigorously scrubbed by an experienced staff – in our case two friendly women we’ll forever thank for their skills and soft hands.

To finish up the treatment and balance your body temperature, all you need is a herb tea by the swimming pool, surrounded by the glorious Arab interiors. 

Sharing a day at the hammam with your significant other makes this experience even more unforgettable, something only you two can understand, no matter how hard you tell your friends about.

You can click here to book a hammam or a beautiful room at La Sultana.

LE TOBSIL: THE ROMANTIC DINNER

You want to surprise your partner with a romantic dinner in Marrakech? Say no more.

Le Tobsil.

Five minutes northwest of Jemaa el-Fnaa, hidden in the medina - like REAL hidden - lies this little gem.

Nuff said, let's talk food.

There's a seasonal set menu that you'll be delighted to unveil.

First... the starters. The table will be filled by nine small plates with various traditional dishes from where the sweet tomato salad and the mashed aubergines stands out. Lots of warm pita bread to dip into your tasty sauces too.

Mains... you can choose between chicken and lamb tajine or just get them both. These are the real king of Moroccan cuisine. The chicken tajine with quinces was just incredible, a blend of sweet and spicy that is hard to describe.

The desserts were also exceptional – we’d kill to eat again their juicy poached pear with orange! There's an extensive wine selection and you can drink as much as you like, it's included in the set menu.

Finally, the magical atmosphere at Le Tobsil will really make you feel "the calm after the storm", after you explored the roaring medina during the day.

Soft, warm lights. No sounds other than the delicate notes of the oud played by the Gnaouri musicians. Their clothes, the trance-inducing head spins and the frenetic dances of these people smell like past times of glory and gold.

The service is impeccable, needless to say. A personal waiter will look after you, making sure your glasses are never empty. This dinner doesn't come cheap (around 65€ pp) but it's totally worth it.

Just try it, you can book a table on their Facebook page.

DAR CHERIFA: THE LITERARY CAFE

Exploring the souk is fun, and if you are good enough at negotiating prices, you can get some really good deals. But it’s also tiring and you will need a break away from the bustling streets.

Then make your way to Café Littéraire, inside Dar Cherifa (here), beautiful riad of the Saadian era.

Centrally located and walking distance from the Koutoubia, the Souk des Teinturiers and the Medersa Ben Youssef (all worth visiting), yet it is hidden from the market and you’ll appreciate a sense of peace and stillness the moment you reach its massive entrance door.

Sit either in the roof top terrace or in the inner court to appreciate the simple and refined decor, with shelves of books surrounding you that will make you love the artistic vibe.

We sipped mint tea and freshly squeezed orange juice with traditional sweets, but you can go for a full meal if you are hungry - it looked awesome.

TRAVEL TIPS

The weather in Marrakech is mild all year round and it gets very hot during the summer months. Probably best to avoid June, July and August but bring sunscreen any time you go.

Outfit tips for him & her: men shorts up to the knee and a T-shirt; long skirts or dresses covering below the knees and shoulders for women.

Bring a damn pencil! When arriving to, or departing from the airport of Marrakech, you will be required to fill in a short immigration form to get some basic information about you and your lodging. Remember that you will have to hand in an immigration form when leaving Marrakech as well.

As of November 2017, there's no electronic ticket reader at the airport, so print your tickets! And if you're flying with Ryanair, remember you need a stamp on your ticket from the check-in desk before going through security. 

A pre-arranged taxi by your riad is usually around 200 MAD per trip (20€). The taxi waiting out of the medina will try to extort as much as they can from you, reasonable prices are between 100 and 150 MAD per trip (10-15€).

We stayed in a charming riad in the south of the medina, the Aladdin, just 5 minutes away from Jema El-Fnaa (book your stay). The 17 rooms are beautifully decorated and quite authentic; the stucco walls in the shower blew us away! Breakfast was delicious (see picture below) and we chilled in the evening on their huge terrace, stargazing and getting the best of the apparent stillness of the city at night.

Sleeping in a riad rather than in a modern hotel is a must in Marrakech, don’t lose this chance to explore at least one of these courtyard mansions in the Medina.

Although restaurants and larger shops accept bank payment, most do not and you will be asked to pay in cash, MAD or Euros.

Cash is needed also for taxis. The petit taxis taking tourist from south to north of the medina costs 20 MAD per trip (2€). Have some 20 MAD ready in your wallet at all times; approach a taxi, tell the driver where you are going and confirm that it is going to cost 20 MAD. There are several gates (bab) in the medina, and it’s easier for the taxi driver to drive outside the walls and drop you at one of the gates, rather than driving through the busy streets of the medina. 

You can generally take photos around the medina; but some people in the souk might not be willing to let you take photos of them, so use your best judgement. In the main square, Jemaa el-Fnaa, if you want to take photos of the stalls and the lively street performances, have some cash ready because they will ask you for a tip (decide in advance how much you are willing to pay).

Negotiate, always! When calling a taxi or buying souvenirs in the souk, do haggle and look convinced, polite and nice while doing it. Don't be shy (like Fab) or scared. Moroccans love it, and also love to charge you for more than the value of what you're buying, so be smart!