JERUSALEM

Five days in Jerusalem.

The Old City, incredible local food and day tours to Palestine and Dead Sea.

Jerusalem is a little jewel.

The Old City contains most of the main sites of interest and is surrounded by walls erected in the 16th century by the Ottomans. It can be entered through seven gates, including the beautiful and imposing Damascus Gate.

The eight gate, the Golden Gate, is sealed and according to the Jewish legend the Messiah will enter the city through it.

The Old City is divided into 4 quarters: Armenian, Christian, Jewish and Muslim. It’s a cauldron of diverse cultures in balance between tradition and modernity.

As we walked through the different quarters, we mingled with Arabs in traditional attire or shiny modern clothes and Jews in casual or Orthodox dresses.

Every alley is different.

We were surrounded by synagogues, churches, convents, mosques, hospices, hidden courtyards and gardens. Getting lost in the vaulted triple bazaar and in the maze of small Middle Eastern souks – with their scent of spices and food – was just a pleasure for the eyes and the nostrils. 

Politically, Jerusalem is a central node in the conflict between Israeli and Palestinians.

After the Arab-Israeli war in 1948 the city was divided into an Israeli sector (West Jerusalem) and a Jordanian sector (East Jerusalem). But with the Six-Day War in 1967 the Israeli occupied the Jordanian sector and extended their jurisdiction over the entire city. This was not accepted by Palestinians, who still claim East Jerusalem as the capital of Palestine. 

RECAP & ITINERARY

When? Mid-April. How long? 5 days. Temperature? Sunny and warm, around 23-25°C during the day and around 16°C at night. Budget? 500-600€ per person all inclusive. Planning needed? Intense. Accommodation? Abraham Hostel. What to book in advance? Tours with Abraham Tours.

***

• Day 1 // Night arrival at Ben Gurion airport // Shuttle to Jerusalem

• Day 2 // Holy City Walking Tour

• Day 3 // Explore the old city // Lunch at Market Mahane Yehuda // Visit Yad Vashem

• Day 4 // Best of the West Bank tour

• Day 5 // Masada Sunrise, Ein Gedi & Dead Sea tour

• Day 6 // Explore the old city // Mount Olives // Evening bus to Tel Aviv

CONTENT

OLD CITY TOUR: THE RELIGIOUS SITES

THE AUSTRIAN HOSPICE: A ROOFTOP CAFE

MAHANE YEHUDA MARKET: EAT LOCALLY

THE WEST BANK: A DAY-TOUR IN PALESTINE

MASADA & DEAD SEA: A PERFECT SUNRISE

OUR HIGHLIGHTS

OLD CITY TOUR: THE RELIGIOUS SITES

Jerusalem is home to the three major monotheistic religions: Judaism, Christianity and Islam. So there’s no better way to start your visit than an introductory walking tour of the main religious sites.

On our first day in Jerusalem we took the Holy City Walking Tour with Abraham Tours (10.30am-3pm, guided tour, around €35 pp, book here) to explore the Old City and visit the holy sites of the Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Dome of the Rock.

They all sit relatively close to each other and it is incredible to think that they represent three religions, that are indeed belonging to the same family, but have such different cultural implications.

The tour was very explanatory and the guide shared many historical anecdotes with us, which was exactly what we’d hoped for!

The highlight of the tour for us was the visit of the Western Wall and the Temple Mount.

The Western Wall is what remains of the original Second Jewish Temple destroyed by the Romans in 70 AD, and it is the holiest site for Jews who go there daily for prayer.

The wall is part of a larger wall that surrounds the Temple Mount, a holy site for both Jews and Muslims. Jews consider it the place where Abraham offered his son, Isaac, as a sacrifice. In Muslim tradition, this is where the Prophet Mohammed ascended into heaven. So you can see why this rocky hill is so important.

Non-Jews can’t access the Western wall and the adjacent square, but you can get a very good sight of it from a terrace overlooking the complex.

We liked it so much that we went back to see it under a different light a couple of days later, at sunset. 

Admission to the Temple Mount is free, and takes place through the Mughrabi Gate near the Western Wall.

Because the site is closed on Friday and Saturday, and open only at limited times the other days, the line sometimes can be long - check the opening hours as they differ for winter and summer.

To enter the gate we went through identity check, bag search and what could be called a “dress code check”: a modest attire is required, with men covering their legs and women strictly covering legs up to the ankle, neck, shoulders and arms up to the wrist.

The warden provides colourful scarves in case you need additional cover up.

No sacred objects of other religions are allowed in. 

The moment you set foot on Temple Mount you’ll find yourself staring breathless at the beautiful Dome of the Rock.

Your eyes will be glued to the gold topped central dome shining in the sunlight, moving down to the octagonal base decorated with marble, mosaics and metal plaques.

The Byzantine style blends with the Islamic visual style - no representations of humans or animals, instead vegetal and geometric patterns and Arabic religious inscriptions.

Take a moment to sit under the numerous trees and feel the peaceful silence all around you.

Temple Mount is a place for prayer and rest for Muslim families, therefore a modest and quiet behaviour is required of anyone. When prayer time comes and the Muezzin calls from the Al-Aqsa Mosque that overlooks the Dome of the Rock, the wardens will kindly - but firmly - help you make your way out of the Mount.

The Holy City Walking Tour doesn’t cover the Mount of Olives but you can easily visit it by yourself.

We went there after our second visit at the Temple Mount, leaving it from the Lions Gate and walking uphill for around 20 minutes to reach the viewpoint.

The slopes of the hill are very interesting, packed with historical sites and landmarks like the Gethsemane garden (where it is said that Jesus underwent the agony and was arrested the night before his crucifixion), a beautiful Jewish Cemetery and the Tombs of the Prophets.

From the top of the Mount of Olives hill you have the best spot for a panoramic view of Jerusalem and an unparalleled view of Temple Mount.

THE AUSTRIAN HOSPICE: A ROOFTOP CAFE

For a panoramic view of the Old City away from the busy souks, the Austrian Hospice (here) is the place to head to. 

With its red and white flag waving above the entrance, this castle-like guesthouse first opened in 1863 for Austrian and German visitors. It still hosts guests in single rooms or shared dormitories.

It’s not just a guesthouse though - the Viennese-style cafe and the cloistered garden are a popular retreat for tourists and locals alike, who regard it an oasis to relax and cool down with iced coffee and apple strudel, or a more filling Wiener Schnitzel.

Climb the stairs that lead to the roof, and enjoy the modest interior of the corridors hosting the dormitories. Don’t forget to bring your camera because from the rooftop terrace you can enjoy a majestic birds-eye view of the Old City and its main landmarks, up to the Mount of Olives and ancient Jewish Cemetery.

The hospice is on the corner of Al Wad Street and Via Dolorosa. Ring the intercom to enter. Entrance is free, but bring cash to pay for food (credit cards are not accepted).

MAHANE YEHUDA MARKET: EAT LOCALLY

If you are a lover of pastries and croissants made in what we call “the proper way” (more fragrant and bready, not dripping butter at every bite), then Jerusalem is the place for you.

We were surprised to find so many bakeries selling croissants and other delicacies of every size and filling. We ended up having multiple breakfasts in pretty much every bakery on our path in the morning…

The other food highlight was Mahane Yehuda Market, located just outside of the Old City.

The market was opened in the late 19th century and is an institution for locals and tourists who can find anything from fresh fruit to fish, meat, nuts, seeds as well as housewares and textiles.

For a tasty lunch break there are plenty of cafes, restaurants and stands with local menus, so if you like falafel, shawarma or kibbeh, you’ll be spoilt for choice. 

Our recommendation is Manou Ba Shouk, a spectacular kosher Lebanese restaurant in the middle of the market - pick a table on the small balcony outside and enjoy the lively trading taking place around you.

We stopped there for a late lunch and ordered kubbeh sanieh (bulgur baked in the oven stuffed with minced beef and pine nut), and taboon eggplant with sesame cream and minced beef and pine nuts.

Our hearts also melted for the bazbussa, a sweet Lebanese semolina cake that goes hand in hand with a powerful Turkish coffee.

The portions were quite big and the taste was just incredible, easily one of the best meals we have ever had. Price was fair at 20€ pp.

THE WEST BANK: A DAY-TOUR IN PALESTINE

A day in Palestine is not enough to appreciate its historical, political and cultural complexity, but it is definitely an eye-opening experience that we recommend to anyone travelling to Israel. 

We took the Best of the West Bank tour from Jerusalem with Abraham Tours (7.30am - 5pm, guided tour, around €95 pp, book here), that explores four highlights of Palestine – the site where Jesus was baptised on the Jordan River, Bethlehem, Jericho and Ramallah.

Our group was fairly small, 12 people in total, all riding in a small van - perfect to listen to the commentary of the tour guide, a Palestinian knowledgeable man with a great sense of humour - and an insane passion for Barcelona FC. 

Driving from Jerusalem into Palestine, we could see Palestinian villages and Israeli settlement sitting next to each other.

Some of the villages we drove through looked poor, with tall incomplete buildings that looked to serve a functional purpose rather than an aesthetic one.

Yet, the vibe we got when walking around Ramallah streets and the main souk, was of a lively and vibrant city that looks forward to modernity. It was fun to look up at a crowded crossing and see a Star & Bucks cafe. 

The entire tour was a highlight for us, but Jericho and Bethlehem deserve a special mention.

Jericho is the oldest inhabited city in the world, with the earliest settlement dating back perhaps to 9000 BC and is of great archaeological interest. The tour took us to Tel es-Sultan ruins, the ancient city of Jericho at 250 metres below sea level. 

Walking through the ruins is an experience by itself. We could appreciate different layers of previous civilisations, and hear from the tour guide about the city’s Biblical importance. For example, the main spring is called Elisha’s spring after the prophet Elisha who made the water healthy.

From Tel es-Sultan we could view the monastery of Mount of Temptation, where according to the Bible Jesus defeated the Devil who had tempted him for 40 days after his baptism.

The monastery can be reached by cable car and a hike, but that is not part of the tour.

Bethlehem was the last stop of the tour.

We first visited the Church of the Nativity, believed to be built on the spot where Jesus was born.

Then we moved towards the graffiti-covered portion of the Separation Wall that leads to the Walled Off Hotel where presumably Bansky stayed in one of his journeys to Palestine.

The Wall was built in 2002 by the Israeli government to physically divide Israel from the West Bank and regulate the movement of Arabs into Israel.

We felt small walking along the tall fence (6 to 8 metres high and covered with barbed-wire) staring at the political-themed graffiti, including several from Bansky, sharing messages of love over war.

MASADA & DEAD SEA: THE PERFECT SUNRISE

If you are an eternal romantic and think that watching the sun rising over the sea is an experience worth some exercise, then take the Masada Sunrise, Ein Gedi and Dead Sea tour from Jerusalem with Abraham Tours (3am - 1pm, but exact times change seasonally, self-guided tour, around €65 pp, book here). 

Pick up from your lodging is pretty early, in order to reach the fortress of Masada before sunrise at around 5am.

The fortress stands out on a flat plateau above the Dead Sea and the cliffs rise to about 450 metres!

It will still be dark when you step out of the bus and queue for the entrance - not a long one, wonder why. The entrance is not included in the tour price and it’s around €8 pp. 

Once through the gate, you will start your climb through the winding “snake path” up the top of Masada, in silence, to appreciate the stillness of the night around you. The climb lasts approximately one hour, it is steep but not impossible, and you can proceed at your own pace. 

Once you arrive at the top of the fortress, the scenery is just beautiful.

The sun rises over the Dead Sea and the Jordanian mountains all around it.

If you are a GoPro user, definitely try take a time lapse to capture the full sunrise.

Then spend some time to explore the fortress, built by King Herod in 30 BC and besieged by the Romans in 72 AD: the Jewish who were defending the place as their last stronghold chose to commit mass suicide rather than being captured.

The remains of the fortress are well preserved, and there are quite a few of them - if you love archeology, this is the site for you.

It is easy to get “lost” wandering around the Masada, so keep an eye on the time and allow some time for the descent as your bus driver will be waiting for you back at the entrance at around 7/7.30am to continue the tour.

The rest of the tour will touch two other nice destinations, a beach on the Dead Sea - where you’ll spend about an hour floating on the muddy water - and the natural reserve of Ein Gedi, a chilling final break in an oasis.

Some useful tips.

The ascent to Masada can be made by cable car, but the first ride is at 8am so it can’t be done with this tour. If you opt for the hike, wear comfortable shoes; depending on the season you might want to wear layers as it can be chilly in the morning but as soon as the sun rises temperatures get pretty hot (especially after the hike).

Definitely bring sunscreen and sunglasses, also needed for the Dead Sea.

Last but not least, pack some breakfast and water with you, as you will need energy for the hike!

TRAVEL TIPS

In Jerusalem, the best way to get around is the bus and light rail (tram), with several routes connecting the Old City with the areas around, where most tourists lodge. If you are staying a few days in Jerusalem and plan on using transportation frequently, it’s probably best to buy a weekly ticket, as the standard fare is 1.50€ for a single trip (meaning that if you need to change between tram and bus you’ll need two tickets).

We stayed at Abraham Hostel (book your stay), in a private bedroom for two with en suite bathroom. The room was clean, spacious enough and buffet breakfast was included. The vibe at the hostel is great, and you can sign up for different activities every day - we did the hummus making workshop and loved it! There is a roof top with hammocks that is perfect to chill with a beer after a long day touristing.