SANTORINI

Four days in Santorini.

A bliss of blue and white.

Santorini is the destination for a romantic escape.

The ingredients are all there: spectacular sunsets, romantic restaurants and luxurious hotels perched on cliffs overlooking the Aegean Sea. 

This iconic Greek island is an Instagrammer paradise, with its whitewashed houses and blue-domed churches.

The beaches are also among the main attractions of Santorini, with their unique colours, determined by the volcanic nature of the island: white, red and mostly black sand and pebbles cover the shores in Santorini. 

The past volcanic eruptions shaped the island. Originally circular, the massive volcanic eruption in 1450 BC caused the middle of the island to fall into the sea, leaving a steep crater known as the caldera (flooded crater).

Last but not least, incredibly delicious Greek food and wine play their part in making Santorini a great holiday destination.

To avoid the real crowd, better not going during the summer months (July & August) but rather in the shoulder seasons (May/June, or September/October) when the weather is still warm and sunny and fewer tourists are around.

RECAP & ITINERARY

When? Mid-July. How long? 4 days. Temperature? Sunny and hot, around 30°C during the day and around 22-23°C at night. Sea? Refreshing, perfect temperature. Budget? 600-700€ per person all inclusive. Planning needed? Moderate. Accommodation? Hotel Ayoba in Imerovigli. Car rental? Yes, booked via the hotel. Either a small car or a moped is recommended to move around the island. What to book in advance? Caldera Boat Tour with Pelican Travel Services.

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• Day 1 // Land at Santorini airport // Rent a car and drive to Imerovigli // Cape Columbo beach // Dinner in Oia

• Day 2 // Red Beach // Sunset at Akrotiri lighthouse // Dinner at Taverna Giorgaros

• Day 3 // Caldera Boat Tour // Dinner at Dimitri’s Taverna in Ammoudi

• Day 4 // Stroll in Fira and Imerovigli // Late evening flight to London

CONTENT

CALDERA BOAT TOUR: VISIT THE VOLCANO

THE RED BEACH: ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW

AKROTIRI: SUNSET BY THE LIGHTHOUSE

AMMOUDI BAY: DIMITRIS FISH TAVERN

IMEROVIGLI: THE BEST CALDERA VIEW

OUR HIGHLIGHTS

CALDERA BOAT TOUR: VISIT THE VOLCANO

A boat tour is the best way to appreciate the caldera and the unique shape of Santorini.

The Santorini Caldera Round Trip with Pelican Travel Services (10.30am-4.30pm, 26€ pp, online booking available) is a 6-hour cruise combining history and geology insights about the island, some hiking, snorkeling and fun time.

The trip touches the main highlights of the archipelago: the volcano Nea Kameni, the Hot Springs and the island of Thirasia.

The gang of tourists you’re sharing the boat with is quite big in summer, but there are enough seats for everyone so we never felt it was too crowded.

The tour departs from the picturesque Old Port of Fira.

The port is nestled at the bottom of a rocky cliff equipped with “only” 587 steps…

It is quite an experience to walk down this long staircase along with dozens of donkeys, and stop at every corner to take pictures of the caldera underneath you. It takes around 30-40 minutes to reach the port.

We missed our tour on the first day because we thought we could do it in half the time: big mistake! 

The lesser-scenic (but breath-saving) alternative is the quick cable car – around five minutes and only 6€ each way.

We definitely recommend walking down the stairs in the morning to board the boat and taking the cable car when heading back.

The first stop is Nea Kameni, an island of volcanic origin at the centre of the caldera.

We started the one-hour climb up towards the top of the island following a slightly steep gravel path under the heavy sun of July.

The walk is easy and slow-paced, as the group is fairly large and there are other tours at the same time. 

The barren landscape of this island makes you feel on Mars at times.

You are literally in the centre of the caldera and with one single glance you can capture all the landmarks of Santorini.

The guide stopped every 10-15 minutes to tell the group about the geology and the history of the island, before leading us in a long circular walk around the rim of the main crater, where you can see the sulfur-smelling fumaroles.

The view of Santorini from the top of Nea Kameni is stunning!

Useful tips: wear comfortable clothes and shoes, bring tons of water, sunscreen and a hat!

The following stop is the Hot Springs, nestled in a small bay of Nea Kameni.

The boat left us close to the shore, and it was a short swim to reach the muddy-looking bay.

We had around 45 minutes to swim in the sulphur springs of the volcano.

The water there is shallow and warm (at 33°C) and the skin immediately feels smoother. The smelly water of the bay will leave a stain on your bathing suit so choose your outfit accordingly! 

Back on the boat and happily sailing towards cooler waters, the final stop is the small and picturesque island of Thirasia.

We could roam around freely for a couple of hours, so we took a stroll through the traditional village of Manolas, did some snorkeling and of course enjoyed a well-deserved lunch in the little port of Korfos.

The taverna Kantouni captured our attention with some delicious swordfish and octopus skewers.

The tour finishes at around 4 pm, when you sail back to Fira following a very scenic and romantic route.

The boat sails very close to the cliffs of the Caldera and the light is perfect to take some nice photos.

THE RED BEACH: ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW

We had seen stunning pictures of one of the most famous beaches of Santorini and decided to check it out on our second day on the island.

The Red Beach is located in the Akrotiri peninsula, not far from the Akrotiri archeological site. It was an easy 30-minute drive from our hotel in Imerovigli. 

We reached the beach by noon, left the car in the parking space and approached the 500 metres downhill path to access the beach.

It’s steep but not too hard and – of course – it’s not great to approach it with flip-flops or barefoot.

The parking lot is basically a large dusty open-space where the wildest parking nightmares come true. It's quite big, but in summer it can get awfully busy.

We had a pretty juicy list of things to bring to the beach, as we heard it's only semi-organised (meaning a local guy will unofficially rent some sunbeds and umbrellas).

We packed sandwiches, sweets and lots of water, towels, sunscreen and mask & snorkel. Fear not, if you set off for the day without food and water, there are two canteens at the beginning of the descending path where you can buy drinks and all the necessaries.

Standing on the top of the path, we set eyes on one of the most charming and peculiar beaches we’ve ever seen.

The pebbly strip is enclosed by steep red cliff creating a mesmerising contrast with the blue palette of the sea. 

Volcanic rocks also emerge from the waters, making it a perfect spot for snorkeling lovers. The sea is clear and refreshing, just perfect to cool down after a few hours in the sun.

In the early afternoon, the powerful Greek sun and the warm lava rocks made the air hotter than a spicy Mexican taco... we were literally boiling!

This is because the Red Beach is naturally sheltered from the wind and the lava attracts the sun.

Worth noting that this beautiful wild spot can get very crowded during peak months, with private catamarans reaching the bay and unloading lots of tourists.

We were lucky enough to be there on a quiet day and had space to set our towels and relax, but apparently that’s not always the case.

Also, the beach is classified as “unsafe” because of potential landslides from the cliffs above.

We saw the scattered rocks of the latest landslide that occurred the previous winter: it wasn’t too close to the sunbathers but it’s probably best not to get too close to the base of the cliff. 

The Squeeze suggestion is to combine an early afternoon at the Red Beach with a trip to the nearby Akrotiri lighthouse for a scenic sunset.

Just check the next paragraph…

AKROTIRI: SUNSET BY THE LIGHTHOUSE

What better way to end a day in Santorini than finding the right spot to enjoy the sun set on the blue sea?

The most renowned sunset spot of the island is Oia but it’s also the most crowded one, with tourists gathering around hours in advance to secure a spot on the street or perked on a wall. 

We preferred to avoid the crowd in Oia, and instead made our way from the Red Beach to the Akrotiri lighthouse, romantically located on the edge of a cliff right above the sea. 

This is arguably the best lighthouse in the Cyclades and one of the first ever built in Greece.

The spot offers a scenic view any time of the day, but gives its best at sunset time, when the red light of the sinking sun floods on the whitewashed walls of the lighthouse. 

We left our car on the road some 300 metres behind the lighthouse and joined the other tourists and locals on the rocks by the sea, all around the lighthouse.

It was such a powerful sunset and a magical moment: a lonely boat framed in the red circle, the clear cloudless sky and the seagulls screeching around.

You just chill, and maybe enjoy a cold beer. 

The Squeeze tip: there’s a nice little mini-market three minutes before arriving at the lighthouse called Faros Market. Stock up on your favourite Greek beer – Mythos, of course. Maybe not a beer that wins brewing competitions, but well, it tastes like summer!

And after our romantic moment, we delved into a delicious seafood dinner at the rustic Taverna Giorgaros.

You really have to stop at this family-run restaurant serving traditional Greek food and delicious fresh fish - one of the waitresses told us that her father catches the fish during the day and her mother cooks it for the restaurant at night. 

The decor is simple and rustic, but the location is a winner - perched on a cliff overlooking the sea, there is a big terrace with a jaw-dropping view north to Thirasiá and the caldera islets.

We picked a table on the terrace, it was a bit windy but the scenic view around us made our dinner unforgettable.

If you like octopus and grilled fish you’re in the right place.

In addition to that, we literally melted in front of a superb portion of fava, one of the specialties of Santorini.

Fava is the very best friend of the local pita bread. It's a smooth relish made with a local variety of yellow pea growing exclusively on the island for more than 3000 years – and not to be confused with what we know as "fava beans" – a completely different thing.

Also, we suggest you wash everything down with some Retsina, a Greek white resinated wine with a unique flavour that is said to have originated from the old practice of sealing wine vessels with Aleppo pine resin.

Portions are generous and prices fair: a shared portion of fava, one main each (fish, of course) and wine cost us around 20€ pp.

AMMOUDI BAY: DIMITRI’S FISH TAVERN

Ammoudi lies at the bottom of the charming village of Oia.

It’s a tiny, picturesque harbour that used to serve as fishermen’s boat houses until 30 years ago. 

Nested under the red caldera cliffs, you can reach Ammoudi from Oia in full Santorini style: by descending 218 uneven, deep steps, juggling between donkey manure and stunning views. Of course, the option to ride a donkey and avoid their poo is always available.

The bay looks like a painting: the harbour with the rocking fishing boats, the waterfront dotted with traditional taverns serving fresh fish and local recipes, the pristine waters and a stunning view of Oia from below. 

There are no beach or facilities here, in fact it’s the perfect bay if you love rocky spots and diving (there is also a diving centre).

Dimitri’s Taverna at Ammoudi (here) was one of the first restaurants to open in Ammoudi in 1989 by local Dimitris and his beloved Joy from Canada.

The taverna is hidden at the end of the waterfront and you have to walk past all the other tavernas to get to it.

Yet its tables are always filled with new and returning customers in love with the simple and old fashioned marine decor, the unbeatable quality of the seafood and the owners’ hospitality. 

We booked a table for dinner through our hotel reception who kindly recommended the place to us and we can confirm this restaurant is really worth a visit.

We were warmly welcomed by a kind waitress who sat us at a table right next to the sea and took our order: a typical Greek salad and amazing tomato fritters, followed by fried calamari and a grilled sea bream. Everything was simply delicious.

You hardly beat the atmosphere of Ammoudi bay: we were cuddled by the fresh marine breeze and the little waves hitting the bay, splashing the table with salty water. 

We spent around 30€ pp including a bottle of local white wine.

The fun bit happened before dinner, as we set off well on time to enjoy a stroll through Oia and the descent to the bay through the charming staircase. 

The steps were pretty slippery if – like Caro – you wear leather-sole sandals. We moved very slowly, but soon realised we were going to be late for our booking, so Caro took off her sandals and walked barefoot, skilfully dribbling donkey poo in the twilight.

By the time we reached the seafront, she realised she had lost one of her sandals’ ties on the long staircase, making quite an entrance in the taverna... elegantly walking-in barefoot, carrying the sandals in her hands! 

At the end of a dinner to remember, the kind Joy gave Caro some cooking string to tie the faulty sandal and the “drama” was over, ready to become one of our funniest memories together.

IMEROVIGLI: THE BEST CALDERA VIEW

Imerovigli is a picturesque village in the northern end of Santorini, only 5 km away from Fira. 

It’s located on a higher cliff than Fira and this provides an even clearer view of the caldera and the volcano.

The name Imerovigli translates as “view spot”, as in old times the high-up location allowed villagers to see the pirate ships approaching. Nowadays, it is a perfect place to admire a gorgeous panorama.

The village is built on the rocks overlooking the blue sea, and there are plenty of restaurants, hotels and traditional houses with stunning views over the caldera.

Accommodation prices vary based on the location (read: proximity to the cliff edge) and the amenities offered.

The village of Imerovigli is a maze of little churches and chapels, narrow streets and hidden viewpoints. 

On our last evening in Santorini, and before catching our late night flight back to London, we took a stroll around the village and casually found another superb viewpoint for sunset.

Here, the sun gradually disappears behind the small island of Thirasia.

Don’t miss this spot, it’s the courtyard of the Agios Georgios Chapel, right in front of Skaros Rock.

After sunset, guess what, we roamed searching a place for dinner.

We chose Anogi Restaurant (here), a lovely place with a garden and a simple, rustic decor.

We were lucky to arrive before peak time and were given a table in less than five minutes - only half an hour later the queue of customers waiting for a table was really long.

The traditional Greek menu is varied and includes meat, seafood and vegetarian options.

The average price for a full meal is around 20-25€ pp.

We totally recommend two mains at Anogi: the pork shank in beer sauce with caramelised red cabbage and green apple and the crown of lamb with lime sauce and basmati rice.

Portions were huge and tasty; we left for the airport with a full belly and a feeling that in just four days we had deepened our love for Greek cuisine.

TRAVEL TIPS

We stayed at Hotel Ayoba (here), a little beautiful hotel with three room types (Canava Suite, Traditional Suite, Double Studio), each with a different design and furnishing. Ayoba is not directly overlooking the sea, yet the relaxing and charming sun terrace with hot tub offers a nice view of the blue Aegean.

The staff is extremely kind and helpful, they gave us some excellent directions for restaurants - for example, they booked a table for us at Dimitri’s Taverna!

We flew EasyJet from London to Santorini. Flights, unfortunately, do not come cheap, especially in peak season.

We decided to rent a small car to go around. If you don’t mind two wheels, a moped is possibly the best option to move around the narrow streets and avoid the stress of finding parking space.