NORTH DEVON

Four days in North Devon.

Untouched by time, Devon’s north coast is the perfect hideaway for surfers, cyclist and nature lovers.

North Devon was a true surprise to us.

Booked as a last-minute, post-lockdown getaway from London (for future readers, we’re talking about April 2021), all we wanted was some rugged countryside, sandy beaches and picturesque seaside villages. And of course fish and chips, lots of it!

And that’s exactly what we found.

North Devon is probably best known for its award-winning coastline, much of which is a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. You can walk for miles along the windy cliffs, enjoying beautiful sunsets and incredible views. 

It’s the perfect UK destination, whether you are after a tranquil break away from the city, or need some energy-boosting activities, and why not, adventure. 

The golden sandy beaches are perfect for an array of water sports such as surfing, wind and kitesurfing. 

The beautiful Tarka Trail offers a 32 miles of traffic-free, flat path between Braunton and Meeth, making it the perfect day out for bike enthusiasts and families alike.

We must say, we were incredibly lucky with the weather. Being late April, we were blessed with sunny and clear skies for our entire stay (4 days), and mild temperature (15-17°C during the day). The wind was blowing strong, but we had been warned about it and got there fully equipped with wind-proof jackets, scarves and hats (we are Italians after all).

OUR HIGHLIGHTS

WESTWARD HO!: SURF & RELAX

Who wouldn't want to visit a village that has an exclamation mark in its name?

This pretty little seaside village lies a mere 20-minute drive from the bigger Barnstaple, and it’s a great base to stay and explore North Devon. It has got all the charm of a Victorian coastal resort, with a pretty promenade, seafront gift shops, a long pebble beach, modern cottages, a golf/cricket course and plenty of little places to dine on local food.

Flanked by the pebble beach on one side and colourful beach huts on the other side, the tarmac promenade turns into a (slightly uphill) coastal path along the cliffs, with incredible views.

A sunset walk on the picturesque promenade and coastal path is definitely a must-do, for at least three reasons (other than the aforementioned beach huts and views).

1. Rudyard Kipling spent several of his childhood years at Westward Ho!. To commemorate his living there, the first stanza of his poem "If—" is set into the pavement on the promenade in granite setts.

2. A short but steep path signalled by a National trust sign takes you to Kipling Tors viewpoint. At the top, an old Coastguard lookout decorated by the local Primary School offers a stunning view northwards across to the rolling surf breaking on Braunton Sands and Baggy Point beyond.

3. The Victorians had the brilliant idea of creating an open water rock sea pool, which exists still today. Positioned within the Rock Pools and right by the sea, you can admire it on your promenade walk, and also venture for a dip or a swim (it was way too cold for us to try).

And what best way to end a sunset walk by the cliffs if not with an exquisite fish and chips by the beach? Check out the next paragraph, it’s all about the food.

If adrenaline and some fun is what you are after, and you’re brave enough to venture into the cold water of the Atlantic Ocean, then a surfing session is a must-do.

Westward Ho! beach is a sandy beach break, with very few rip currents or under water beach obstructions, which makes it one of the safest beaches in Devon. 

The beach can be surfed at all states of the tide. The tide range (difference in height between high and low waters) reaches its peak approximately twice a month, around New Moon and Full Moon. This peak is called spring tide (not after the season, but from the word’s meaning “jump, rise”). At high water the waves break onto a pebble ridge, and therefore getting out of the sea can be tricky. Beginners are best to avoid 2.5 hours each side of high water for safety. 

We booked a 2-hour group class with North Devon Surf School, and enjoyed it very much.

Conveniently located by Westward Ho! beach, they offer group or private classes, with all equipment provided (surf board, wetsuit, neoprene gloves and shoes).  

Our session started at low water (1.30 pm) and finished when the water started to rise. It was super easy to get in and out of the water, and the waves were good and neat, thanks to the East offshore wind.

Our coach John, a nice and experienced local surfer, was in the water with us, giving tips and corrections to everyone. Needless to say, the water was ice-cold, and after just over one hour we couldn't feel our feet or hands anymore, so we called it a day.

EATING IN NORTH DEVON: NOT ONLY CREAM TEA

Eating in Devon was a real pleasure.

This rural region of England is blessed with top-notch fish and dairy produce (butter and clotted cream anyone?). Devon shares some typical foods with the neighbouring Cornwall, such as the cream tea tradition, beers and ciders, and the famous pasties: a firm point of rivalry between the two counties.

When in Westward Ho!, do not miss these three places.

For a superb fish & chips, head to Atlantic Bay. Located on the seafront of the village, it has an excellent online ordering & collection system, perfect to grab a fish & chips to go and eat it at the outdoor tables or at the beach (literally one minute walk).

Tipped by a local friend who is in awe with the place, we went for a meal deal and for 8£ we had a good portion of cod with mushy peas and chips on the side. The cod was really tasty, the batter was crunchy and hot, but not heavy.

For a very local breakfast on the go, don’t miss Cabana, a small family-run cafe kiosk with a bunch of outdoor tables and a very well made creamy flat white. 

The owners have a word and a smile for everyone, the atmosphere is genuinely relaxed and the coffees are really good.

The English breakfast is yummy and fairly priced (£5-6). The menu also features lunch boxes with their homemade flatbread, hummus and sides.

The Pig & Olive is the place for pizza cravings, or to relax and fuel up after a surf class, as it’s conveniently located next to North Devon Surf School.

We ordered a classic Napoli with anchovies and the pizza was simply delicious, with a crunchy crust on the outside (still smelling of wood fire) and a tasty tomato sauce, with all the right scent of oregano and garlic. These people really make one of the best wood-fired pizzas we’ve tried in the UK (no jokes) and the menu is quite extensive, with their curious signature pizza called Pig & Olive with mozzarella, olives and pulled pork… needless to say it looked delicious.

For dinner and drinks in a fabulous pub, we recommend a table in the garden at Heanton Court, near Barnstaple.

This ancient manor house was once owned by the descendent of King Edward IV and is now a must-visit for its great architecture, romantic sea view and, of course, for its country-pub classic dishes.

The menu ranges from Wagyu burgers to Hunter’s Chicken Schnitzel (which looked very tasty) and slow-cooked beef Bourguignon. Plenty of cool cocktails, including interesting variations to the Italian Spritz, and a delicious double-chocolate brownie served with Irish liqueur ice-cream. If you are around, just go.

THE TARKA TRAIL: CYCLING & HIKING ROUTES

The Tarka Trail is a fantastic eight-shaped cycling route that has its focal centre in Barnstaple.

Inspired by the route travelled by an otter named Tarka, a fictional character in the book Tarka the Otter, this 180 mile (~290km) route takes cyclists and hikers through unspoiled countryside, rivers, sea cliffs and beautiful beaches.

(For the record, the southern loop incorporates the UK longest, continuous off-road cycle path).

The best bit for a flat, 1-day cycling experience is the path that runs from Braunton to Instow, easy and traffic-free for a total of 40km return trip.

If you don’t have your bike with you, fear not: there are many cycle hiring companies throughout the trail, however not all of them are open on weekends. We drove to Braunton and hired two hybrid bikes from the friendly gang at Otter Cycle, for only 15£ pp for the full day (including helmets and tools for emergency repairs).

We started cycling in the small village of Braunton around midday, and returned our bikes at 5pm.

We stopped several times along the way to enjoy nature around us and take pictures of the dry riverbed dotted with old boats aground, and at the same time to chat with locals and tourists, all very friendly.

We crossed the Taw river on the Barnstaple bridge, avoiding the city traffic and enjoying a great view from the top. From the bridge, the road to Instow is just beautiful and slightly downhill, with great views of the Taw estuary. 

There is so much to experience along the trail: in just five hours on the road we crossed different wildlife habitats, like the mudflats and sandbanks revealed at low tide, oak woodlands, ponds and tiny streams of fresh water. Here and there there are wood shelters and benches where travellers can rest and enjoy this immersion in nature.

Along the way, cyclists can find cafes and bike shops for last minute repairs, and there are endless possibilities for a detour in any of the villages bordering the trail.

The Tarka Trail is perfect for nature lovers and for whoever needs a break from the city. The flat bit between Braunton and Bideford is ideal for kids and families. There are toilets at Braunton, Barnstaple, Fremington Quay, Bideford and Torrington, but also in all the cafes and pubs along the way.

We reached Instow right in time for lunch at the tables of the welcoming waterfront Quay Inn pub. Blessed by the sun and the sea breeze, we ordered a sandwich and sampled the exquisite Tarka Lager – a local beer voted best UK-brewed lager in 2018.

The beach in Instow is sheltered from the wind, so it’s the perfect place to lie down and boost your Vitamin D.

During WW2, this large sandy beach was used by the American and British Army as a training ground for the D-Day, the largest amphibious attack in history. 

BARNSTAPLE & ILFRACOMBE

Barnstaple is a nice town on the river Taw, the perfect starting point of your trip in North Devon.

We arrived in Barnstaple via train from Exeter and rented a car at the local Enterprise company, 30 minutes walking from the station.

A few things to do in town: visiting the small but lively Barnstaple Pannier Market to purchase some local crafts and foods (especially honey and jams), the small Museum of Barnstaple & North Devon, and grabbing lunch in one of the inviting shops in Butchers' Row.

Butchers' Row is perfect for lunch and snacks as it consists of a bunch of local cafes and food shops under an overhanging roof, selling agricultural goods and delicious Devonshire products (try South West Cheese and also The Crafty Beer Shop).

The city centre is dotted with interesting antique shops and interesting landmarks: the Queen Anne's Walk (grade I listed building), a metal-plaque installation paying tribute to the song “Singing In The Rain” hidden in an alley, and a clocktower memorial to Prince Albert, the beloved husband of Queen Victoria.

Ilfracombe is a picturesque seaside resort, around 15km north of Barnstaple.

Park the car in the free spots near Oxford Park and start walking along the High Street, reaching the harbour where you’ll see the imposing Damien Hirst's statue named Verity and the Chapel of St. Nicholas (now a lighthouse) on Lantern Hill.

Along the way, don’t miss the oddly shaped Landmark Theatre (you either hate it or love it, we tend more towards hate as the structure resembles a miniature nuclear power plant) and the rocky Hillsborough Hill, dominating the village and offering a great panoramic view of Ilfracombe, if you complete the climb.

Stop at the quirky Curiosity Cottage Tea Room for a delicious quintessential cream tea. We followed the scent of home-made scones and jam and enjoyed the front garden, surrounded by loads of potted flowers and British memorabilia: a lovely grandmother’s garden!

If you still have time, we suggest soaking the chilled vibe of the village by visiting the small art galleries and independent shops in town and also exploring the nearby coves and beaches (especially the famous Tunnels Beaches).

Chocoholics must pay a visit to the sweet lady owning the Ilfracombe Chocolate Emporium, a haven full of home-made chocolate treats of any type, perfect for souvenirs.

BAGGY POINT, CROYDE AND WOOLACOMBE

Baggy Point is a majestic headland, separating Woolacombe Beach from Croyde Beach: this a must-do destination for anyone visiting North Devon.

It’s also a memorable place to enjoy the sunset and the far reaching coastal views.

We drove from Westward Ho! (around 40 minutes), left the car at the car park and enjoyed a stroll until the tip of the headland. It takes around an hour, back-and-forth.

Baggy Point offers a number of cycle and walk paths, good for most age and level of fitness, taking travellers around unspoiled countryside, local farmlands and dramatic cliffs.

You can easily spend a full day in the area: we suggest doing a circular path following the South West Coast Path from Croyde Bay to Baggy Point, before moving back inland until Putsborough, and then back to the start.

Animal lovers, you’re in the right place: Baggy Point is a great place to spot wildlife, from endangered birds to cattle and seals, who are often found swimming near the coast.

The car park is open from 8am till 9.30pm and it costs £6 for the whole day. A kiosk in the car park also sells hot drinks and pasties everyday from 10.30am-3.30pm.

Croyde and Woolacombe are both premier spots for surfing and great escapes from the urban life.

Croyde Beach is small, but full of life.

It’s only 800 metres long and it’s well known for its water quality and because surfers love the swells that work all year round – even if the rides are usually short because the waves tend to break quickly. The currents are strong, so it’s advisable to swim under the eyes of lifeguards.

We drove through the charming village of Croyde and we really liked it, with its cob walled cottages with thatch roofs and an overall relaxed vibe.

Woolacombe is a 5km long stretch of soft sand and was voted Britain’s best beach in 2015 and 2016. The beach works well at any points of the tide, making it a favourite for both expert surfers and beginners (thanks to the many surf schools around).

The small village of Woolacombe is also a nice place to use as a base for your adventure in North Devon. Small in winter, it gets very busy and lively in summer.

TRAVEL TIPS

We took a train from London Paddington to Barnstaple (with change at Exeter St David’s), for a total of 3.30 hours and the cost is around 80£ pp for a return ticket. If you haven’t pre-booked a seat, go early to the train station to beat the crowd and find yourself a comfortable spot.

We rented a car with Enterprise in Barnstaple, a 20-minute walk from the train station.

Driving in Devon is pretty easy, but a small car is recommended due to the size of some countryside roads. These roads are built for being two-way, despite being barely one car wide.

If you come across another lonely driver in one of these narrow lanes, you might have to drive backwards for fairly long distances to find a spot where both cars can fit, so being comfortable driving backwards is a plus.

We stayed at Surf Bay Holiday Park in Westward Ho!, a beautiful and tranquil park of self-catering static caravans & apartments of 4* standard, 5-10 minutes away from the beach.

Overlooking a spacious lawn area, each static caravan and apartment has plenty of space surrounding it and there is ample room for parking along side your accommodation. The apartments sleep 4-6 and the static caravans sleep from 2-8 people with a range of facilities depending on the caravan or apartment which include TV, DVD players, Bluetooth sound system, hot tubs, jacuzzi bath, free gas & electricity and central heating for a warm and comfortable holiday.

Our caravan had 2 bedrooms (1 en-suite), main bathroom with powerful big shower, open-plan dining area / lounge, fully fitted / equipped kitchen.